Once a week, the old freight
boat would leave out of Ocracoke Island, N.C., and run across the Pamlico Sound
and go up the Pamlico River to the docks at Washington, N.C.
Crews would offload
lots of seafood products packed in salt to be delivered to markets in eastern
North Carolina and beyond.
The last vessel to make
the run was the Bessie Virginia, retiring in the early 1960s. Built in
1910, she was a diesel-powered, 65-foot vessel capable of carrying 90 tons of
freight. This is how the Ocracoke Islanders got their supplies and materials.
Ocracoke’s old-timers
said: “Now and then, dead bodies were carried off the island on the freight
boat. At those times, the vessel’s flag was flown upside down at half mast,” as
a signal for folks to be prayerful toward the families of the “dearly
departeds.”
Before electrification of
Ocracoke in the mid-1930s, the freight boat brought an important commodity –
huge, 300-pound blocks of ice. (When the Ocracoke Power and Light Company was
formed, one of the first village projects was to build an ice plant next to the
community store.)
Three generations of
Ocracoke O’Neals served as freight boat pilots over the years, and they would
also carry passengers packed amidst the cargo, which could include livestock,
soft drinks, groceries, medicines, clothing, building supplies…and anything
else that would fit aboard.
Capt. Van Henry O’Neal could
often be seen visiting Washington shops with a list of items needed by the O’cokers.
Fannie Pearl Fulcher said:
“We used to leave Ocracoke early in the morning, and it would take us all day
long to cross the Pamlico Sound and chug up the river to get into Washington.”
Capt. Van Henry O’Neal
said the average trip time was 7 hours, 15 minutes. The top speed was 10 knots
(about 11.5 miles per hour).
Fannie said that Ocracoke
had little access to fruit except for what was transported on the freight boat
from Washington, such as oranges, apples, coconuts, pineapples, lemons and
limes. Island churches had fruit festivals each year, selling lemon pies,
pineapple cake and ice cream flavored with a variety of fruits.
Ocracoke’s Elsie Ballance
Garrish said the freight boat would bring vacationers from Washington to Ocracoke
so they would enjoy fishing and sunbathing. Of course, the highlight was always
the Saturday night square dancing.
“The Ocracoke Island
square dance is actually a big circle dance,” wrote Philip Howard, who often
“calls” the community dances these days. He will talk you through the dance:
“Swing your partner...and
promenade…wring your dishrag…shoo fly in the middle…open up and wind the
clock.”
“Dive for the oyster…dig
for the clam…carry your partner to the promised land!”
Author Bland Simpson (shown below) shared
a tale about the Bessie Virginia told by Blount Rumley, a historian
based in “Little Washington.”
“One trip, Capt. Van had
a whole hull full of crabs on the Bessie Virginia…the market was flooded
with crabs; he couldn’t get rid of ‘em, and they were starting to go bad,
fast…and it was making a big smell,” Rumley said.
Blount Rumley
“The captain went all
through the town of Washington begging people to come take these crabs. My
father got three pickup truck loads,” Rumley said. “Spread ‘em all over the
backyard for fertilizer. Mama was so mad! She was furious. It did smell right
much. Neighbors didn’t like it too much either.”
“The next day, the crabs
mysteriously disappeared.”
Meet Ocracokers Irvin and Elsie Garrish:
Capt. Irvin Scott Garrish
of Ocracoke (1916-97) used to run the ferry route between Ocracoke Island and the
mainland in Carteret County.
The ferry service, which
began in 1960, was owned and operated by the Taylor brothers of Sea Level. They
had multiple business interests in the Down East section of Carteret County.
The State of North
Carolina purchased the Taylors’ ferry operation in 1964, and the southern docks
were moved from the village of Atlantic to Cedar Island, cutting the crossing
time by 75 minutes.
(Today, the Cedar Island-Ocracoke ferry crossing takes approximately
2 hours and 15 minutes. The distance is roughly 22 miles.)
Martha Garrish O’Neal said
Capt. Garrish (her father) loved his job, “indulging his penchant for sharing
the story of Ocracoke. He’d tell stories and point out different things about
the sounds (Core and Pamlico) over the loudspeaker for the passengers.”
When time came for Irvin
Garrish to retire from ferry boat piloting, he found work as the driver and
narrator of the Ocracoke village trolley. When the trolley service was
discontinued, “Irvin got a van and drove it around as a tour shuttle for
visitors,” Martha said.
“He also made a cassette
recording for people to do their own tours,” she said. “His mind was always
going.”
Irvin Garrish was a
one-man tourism bureau. As a tribute, the North Carolina Department of
Transportation named the historic 17-mile stretch of N.C. Route 12 on Ocracoke Island
in his memory – “Irvin Garrish Highway.”
Another chapter in the
“life and times of Irvin Garrish,” details his distinction as being the first
representative from Ocracoke Township to be elected to the Hyde County Board of
Commissioners.
This was an important breakthrough that helped allay feelings of
“taxation without representation” on the island. Ocracoke provides more than
half of the tax base for Hyde County.
Irvin Garrish was married
to an Ocracoke girl named Elsie Dean Ballance (1915-2003), who probably
deserved her own highway.
She became a Registered
Nurse in 1938, having received her training at Rex Hospital in Raleigh. “In Ocracoke
(with no doctor), Elsie devoted herself to providing health care for her
friends and neighbors,” according to village historian Philip Howard.
The Garrish clan is
well-represented on Ocracoke Island, Philip Howard said. Garrish is one of
about a dozen surnames that date back to the first census in 1790.
Martha Garrish, wife of
Wilson Jule Garrish, has assumed a bit of a “gatekeeper” role in her career as
an Ocracoke real estate sales executive.
Writing for Our State
magazine, journalist Michael Graff stated: “Martha Garrish sells pieces of
Ocracoke to people who love it. ‘This is not a financial decision,’ Martha
tells prospective buyers. ‘This is an emotional decision. You’re buying a love
of Ocracoke.’”
“The worst thing you can
do is come here because you love it and then try to change it,” Martha said.
“If you do, it’s like ‘Survivor.’ We’re going to vote you off the island.”
She’s not serious, of
course…but there’s nothing wrong with a friendly idle threat to get the point
across.
Doug and Judy Eifer moved
to Ocracoke from Kentucky to rejuvenate a local restaurant, Graff reported.
“The Eifers get almost
all of their seafood from fishermen on the island. Ferris brings the bluefish,
flounder and drum. Julian provides most of the shellfish. And Rodney brings the
clams,” Graff said. “Rodney also helped Doug learn how to drive a boat.”
“The reason we moved here
was because of the people,” Doug says. “The natural beauty only takes you so
far.”