Friday, July 27, 2018

Ice cream is its own food group in the South



One of the iconic “summer foods of the South” observes its 175-year anniversary in 2018. Can you say ice cream?

We’re talkin’ homemade ice cream, as prepared in an old-fashioned, hand-cranked ice cream churn that was patented in 1843 by Nancy M. Johnson of Philadelphia.

Serve us up some big bowls of vanilla, chocolate, peach, strawberry, blueberry-lemon…or you-name-it…Southern ice cream. Swallow and wallow. Dagnabbit, that’s good stuff!

“There are some foods that have a powerful connection to summer, and ice cream is one of them,” said Virginia Willis of Augusta Ga., who is a chef and cookbook author. She was a recent guest blogger for the Southern Foodways Alliance at the University of Mississippi in Oxford.

“Ice cream has a magical quality,” Willis wrote. “One lick…instantly brings back memories of childhood, listening to the rhythmic surge of the ice cream maker while impatiently waiting on the screened-in porch for an adult to pronounce that it was ready.”

Truly, not much is known about inventor Nancy Johnson, but here’s how her churn worked: An inner canister containing the ice cream ingredients was placed inside a larger bucket. Ice and rock salt were placed between the two vessels. (The salt lowers the temperature of the ice.)

Ingeniously, Nancy Johnson used a crank on the outside of the big bucket that was connected by meshed gears to a paddle inside. The hand crank moved the paddle that continuously scraped the frozen milk or cream from the walls of the inner can. Consistent stirring resulted in smoother ice cream with a consistent texture.

Willis commented: “There’s nothing like the old-fashioned, metal chamber-style ice cream maker that uses coarse ice. If you need inspiration (to do it yourself), take a peek at the ingredient list on some of those ‘home-style’ ice creams in your grocer’s freezer. They read more like a chemistry manual than an ingredient list.”

Ten years after Nancy Johnson’s patent, a company was born in 1853 in Laconia, N.H., by Thomas Sands. He named it the White Mountain Freezer Company, and it would become the world’s premier manufacturer of ice cream churns. White Mountain uses New England white pine to create its handcrafted buckets and has been for generations.

Company literature says: “White Mountain has been about making sweet family memories with ice cream made by hand. We keep our standards high because we know that White Mountain Ice Cream Makers become part of a family tradition passed from one generation to the next.

“At the heart of the White Mountain machine is a uniquely designed, twin-blade ‘dasher’ (the term describes the inner plunger-paddle device). One set of blades turns clockwise while another set turns counter-clockwise. That motion action continuously folds the ingredient mixture from the outer walls back onto itself, creating the smoothest and creamiest ice cream.”

White Mountain celebrated its centennial anniversary in 1953 by introducing an electric, motor powered unit that revolutionized homemade ice cream making by eliminating the need for elbow grease.

In 1881, the editors of Puck, a humor magazine published in New York City, commented on the societal effects of ice cream: “Summer would not be summer without ice-cream. Ice-cream is the favorite currency of love.”

Don Kardong, an American author and marathon runner, comments that if there were no ice cream, the world would be full of “darkness and chaos.”

Both of these comments can be found in “The Quote Garden,” a product of quotation anthologist Terri Guillemets of Phoenix, Ariz. She started collecting quotations at age 13 and has made it her career to “spread quotatious joy.”

She also has a knack for writing her own quotations, and she has a love of ice cream. Two of Guillemets’ sayings are:

“Me and ice cream. Best friends forever.”

“I don’t cry over spilt milk, but a fallen scoop of ice cream is enough to ruin my whole day.”

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