Saturday, August 4, 2018

Deviled eggs are a Southern delicacy



 Writing for Our State magazine, based in Greensboro, N.C., Andrea Weigl asserts that in the South: “The deviled egg is revered. It’s both the symbol and the centerpiece for every covered-dish dinner or picnic you’ve ever attended.”

She has credentialed subject matter experts to back her up. One is Liz Williams, the director of the New Orleans-based Southern Food and Beverage Museum. When Williams turned 21, her mother marked her daughter’s adulthood by giving her a deviled egg plate and saying: “You can’t entertain without one of these.”

Debbie Moose, a food writer and author in Raleigh, shared her mother’s advice: “There are two things that a Southern woman always got for wedding presents: a hand-crank ice cream maker and a deviled egg plate.”

Susan Perry of Durham, an egg plate collector, told Weigl she gives egg plates as gifts to newborn girls because she believes all Southern women should have one. “Deviled eggs are the first thing to go at a party,” Perry says. “So, you better have an attractive empty plate.”

On assignment for History.com, Laura Schumm determined the origin of “modern-day deviled eggs – those classic creamy concoctions – dates back to ancient Rome.”

“Around 61 A.D., eggs were boiled, seasoned with spicy sauces and then typically served at the beginning of a meal as a first course,” Schumm reported.

“The first known printed mention of ‘devil’ as a culinary term appeared in Great Britain in 1786, in reference to dishes including hot ingredients or those that were highly seasoned. By 1800, ‘deviling’ described the process of making food spicy.

“But in some parts of the world,” Schumm said, “the popular egg hors d’oeuvres are referred to as mimosa eggs, stuffed eggs or dressed eggs.”

She noted that salad eggs is the term frequently used at church functions in the United States to avoid any association with Satan.

According to Schumm, the classic version of deviled eggs is now widely considered to include a mixture of mashed up egg yolks and whites, mayonnaise and mustard, “but professional chefs and home cooks around the world have experimented with numerous variations on the filling, including the use of pickle relish (either dill and sweet), bacon, crab meat”…you name it. Add pepper and hot sauce, if you care and dare.

A sprinkle of paprika on the top adds a splash of color.

Presentation is critical as well as practical.

It requires an official deviled egg plate, platter or tray…especially when traveling, so the eggs sit tight in their “depressions” and don’t go sliding off onto the seat, floor or trunk of the vehicle.

Diana Bulls, writing for Kings River Life Magazine in Reedley, Calif., said America’s first true egg plates were produced in the 1930s in popular Depression Glass Sandwich Patterns.

She said Duncan & Miller Glass Company in Washington, Pa., most likely made the earliest egg plates.

Angela Huston, a columnist with Medina County (Ohio) Life, an online newsletter, offers her own personal observation:

“Every time I make deviled eggs, I wonder ‘what were they thinking’? The ubiquitous ‘they’ is whoever designed the plate specifically for serving deviled eggs with 15 neat, little, oval-shaped slots.

“Anyone who has ever fixed deviled eggs knows the eggs are cut in half; no matter how many eggs you cook, the final count will come out to an even number, and 15 is not an even number.” Dagnabbit.

Huston continued: “Would it really have been all that difficult for someone with engineering sense to redesign the plate so it would have an even number of slots?

Huston concluded: “I have finally learned to stop fussing. Now, I just eat the darned extra egg, a necessary sacrifice to have peace of mind — and a properly balanced plate.”

Marie Lawrence of Morehead City, N.C., may have the largest egg plate collection in the United States: 986 as of Palm Sunday 2018. One of the fun things about egg plates, she said is that there is no uniformity in the number of depressions.

Lawrence said she has been collecting egg plates for nearly 20 years. They are colorful and come in a variety of shapes and sizes and many are hand-painted. “Like flowers, they make you happy,” Lawrence said.

No comments:

Post a Comment

College football bowl game season is upon us

Welcome to college football bowl game season . Traditionally, the day after Christmas is the kickoff to a slate of football games that match...