N.C. barbecue may have originated in Harnett County

Is Harnett County the “point of origin” for North Carolina’s legendary pork barbecue?

Could be. In the early 1750s, a settler who had come from Scotland and known as “Big Red Neill McNeill” saw steam or a mist rising from a nearby creek. 

McNeill, who was a former sailor and explorer, said the sight reminded him of the smoke wafting from the barbecue meat-cooking pits in the islands of the Caribbean. “In a fit of culinary nostalgia,” he named the stream Barbecue Creek.

 

The people of the West Indies may have invented “whole-hog pit-cooked barbecue,” but North Carolinians have perfected it.

 

According to the late Malcolm Fowler, a local Harnett County historian and author, Neill McNeill “held many a barbecue at his cabin on the Cape Fear River near Smiley’s Falls at Averasboro (now Erwin), inviting all his pioneer friends.” 

“One of these good friends was Archibald Buie, known as ‘Piper Archie,’ who would supply the music on these raucous occasions,” Fowler wrote. 

“In 1759, Neill McNeill threw his last party. A great fever struck the Upper Cape Fear. McNeill spent much time attending to the sick and dying, but he finally succumbed to the fever himself,” Fowler said. 

“With the help of Piper Archie, McNeill carved his own giant casket out of a large gum tree, with the two sides pieced together with pegs.” McNeill, who was at least 6-foot-6, wanted to be buried “on the brow of Smiley’s Hill” on the opposite (west) side of Smiley’s Falls on the Cape Fear River, Fowler wrote.

 

The river had risen. It was too high. Archie Buie decided “it was impossible to get the coffin across,” so McNeill was buried on the east side of the river, near his cabin. 

For more than 100 years, stories were told that “when the wind was just right,” people could hear a giant ghost with bright red hair and a curly red beard moaning, while Piper Archie’s haunt was playing his pipes. 

In 1865, Union Gen. William Tecumseh Sherman came through Harnett County. Confederate troops met the Union soldiers in the Battle of Averasboro, which was fought in a driving rain. “It rained for several days without cessation, and the swollen Cape Fear River finally burst its banks and flooded the valley.” 

“When the waters receded after the flood, a large gum tree was discovered on the west bank of the river. The tree had burst apart, and inside the hollowed-out trunk, the remains of a skeleton with red hair and a red beard were found. Neill McNeill was finally laid to rest on the brow of Smiley’s Hill.” 

Historian Jerry Dale (J.D.) Lewis said that the community of Barbecue, N.C., once was spelled as “Barbeque.” 

Dictionary men Samuel Johnson and Noah Webster always insisted that the one and only correct spelling is “barbecue.” But, U.S. President Andrew Jackson, a North Carolina boy, always said: “It’s a damned poor mind that can think of only one way to spell a word.”

 

An authority on southern sociology is Dr. John Shelton Reed, a retired professor from the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill. He said: “Despite the shortcomings of barbeque (it looks as if it should be pronounced ‘bar-beck’), ‘barbeque’ is in a statistical dead heat with ‘barbecue’ in the Carolinas.” 

“Over the mountains in Kentucky, Tennessee, Alabama, Mississippi and Arkansas, ‘barbeque’ is about twice as common as the authorized spelling. It’s clear that Southerners really like that letter ‘Q,’” Dr. Reed said.

 

Dr. Reed

Barbecue Township is historically significant

One of North Carolina’s most historic churches is found in Harnett County’s Barbecue Township. It’s the Barbecue Presbyterian Church near Barbecue Creek, organized in 1757 by early settlers who had come to this region from Scotland. 

The Rev. James Campbell was sent from Philadelphia to serve as minister to the “destitute settlements” in five North Carolina counties – Cumberland, Harnett, Hoke, Lee and Robeson. He would preach to the Scots in their Gaelic tongue.

 

As the American Revolutionary War drew nigh, the Scots were quite divided as Loyalists or Patriots. “One Sunday, Rev. Campbell prayed for the success of the American arms,” reported historian Jerry Dale (J.D.) Lewis. 

After the service, the preacher “was approached by an old Tory Scot, McAlpin Munn, who said, in effect, ‘If ever you pray again as you did this day, the bullet is molded and the powder is in my horn to blow it through your head.’” 

Lewis said that encounter prompted Campbell to relocate his ministry to Guilford County, “a safe distance from McAlpin Munn.” 

Barbecue Church was the site of a Revolutionary War skirmish in 1781. Patriots from the Barbecue Company of the Cumberland County Regiment under the command of Capt. Daniel Buie engaged the British Legion dragoons who were led by Lt. Col. Banastre Tarleton.

 

He was regarded as “the most hated” British commander, because his “Tarleton Raiders” were responsible for slaughtering colonial troops in 1780 at the “Waxhaw Massacre” near Lancaster, S.C. 

Tarleton recorded an “easy win” at Barbecue Church. During the brief struggle, patriot Archibald Buie, known as “Piper Archie,” was shot in the back of the head, said the Buie family genealogist. The wound caused him to slowly lose his vision. 

“Piper Archie had always been known as a wanderer, and he continued to roam the hills and hollows,” even after going blind. Often becoming lost, Archie would then “begin playing his bagpipes. Someone would hear his piping and go and bring him in.” 

So, where’s the best place to get Carolina barbecue when one’s in Barbecue Township? Probably at the Presbyterian church when the men’s Bible group is having a pig picking.

 

Otherwise, the locals suggest motoring about 15 miles to Sanford in Lee County to enjoy Ron’s Barn Barbecue & Seafood, Stubbs and Son BBQ or Smoke & Barrel. Another option is to travel about the same distance in the opposite direction to Noble Meats & Eatery in Spring Lake.

 

Ron's Barn

Katie Lee prefers Ron’s. She says: “The pulled pork was succulent and well prepared. We love the NC vinegar-based sauce. The hush puppies were cooked to perfection and the butter potatoes, baked beams and sweet tea were perfect. This is cafeteria-style, so you walk down the line and pick your meats and vegetables from a wide variety of southern staples.”

Bailey Lawrence likes to get his barbecue fix at Stubbs. He says: “Food is fantastic. BBQ is Eastern NC Style, so expect chopped pork with a vinegar-based sauce that has a slight kick. Slaw is vinegar-based as well. Fries are hand cut and excellent.”

 

Stubbs and Son

Commenting on Smoke & Barrel, Mickie Smith says: “This is our go-to place. We moved from across the country some months ago and immediately looked for a local place to enjoy some bbq and drinks. Based on reviews, we tried this place, and it didn’t disappoint.”

Irene Giovanelli is a fan of Noble. She says: “Very amazing quality meat! This is my new favorite place to get tasty authentic BBQ.”

Noble Meats & Eatery