House-Autry Mills business is a ‘Carolina classic’

House-Autry Mills deserves a “little love” in the online balloting to select the “Coolest Thing Made in North Carolina.” The contest is being coordinated by the North Carolina Chamber of Commerce to underscore the importance of manufacturing to the state’s economy. 

Stop the presses! The NC Chamber opened nominations early. The new deadline to submit nominations is Friday, Aug. 19. 

Make your nomination online at coolestthingmadeinnc.com.

 On Thursday, Aug. 25, the NC Chamber will announce online the full field of nominees, and the public may go to the site to vote on the “Coolest Thing Made in NC.” 

The field of candidates will narrow with each round of voting, with the winning products being announced on Thursday, Oct. 6.

House-Autry got its start in 1812 as House’s Mill, located along Sevenmile Swamp in upper Sampson County, a few miles below the community of Newton Grove. 

The story goes: William House and his family came to the United States from England in 1812, and their sailing vessels brought the House millstones. After landing in Wilmington, the giant millstones were ferried up the Cape Fear River as far as it was navigable (probably near Fayetteville). 

From there, the millstones were transported by oxcart and mule teams over land to the mill site, probably about 35 more miles. 

House’s Mill ground corn, and for a time also wheat and rice. Like most grist mills, it also became a community meeting place, a role it fulfilled well into the 20th century. The mill pond, too, provided recreational opportunities, principally fishing. 

The House family’s main contribution to society, however, is their breading that makes fried chicken oh-so crispier and tastier.

 

Historically, House’s Mill survived the Civil War. Union Gen. William T. Sherman’s troops had seized it (presumably on March 18, 1865) to produce food for the Union army. 

Sherman’s forces had destroyed the former U.S. Arsenel in Fayetteville on March 11. Divisions of the Union army under Sherman’s command were marching up the road, intent on occupying the capital city of Raleigh and destroying the North Carolina Railroad at Goldsboro.) 

House’s Mill merged in 1967 with the Autry Brothers Mill Company of Autryville, which had been started by twins Dan and John Autry. The House family sold to private investors in 1990. 

House-Autry Mills built a new $8 million facility in 2001, moving its operations to the Town of Four Oaks in Johnston County, about 15 miles north of Newton Grove. (Four Oaks was cleverly named for four oak tree sprouts growing from a stump.) 

Writing for Our State magazine, Josh Shaffer got to look around the new mill in 2012 to see why House-Autry is the nation’s leading fried chicken breading product. What impressed him most was the smell that is associated with good Southern cooking.

“After 200 years, House-Autry’s breader and mixer operation still smells like the peppery skin of a chicken drumstick,” Shaffer said. “You can’t help but think of dinner, except when you’re thinking about lunch.” 

Craig Hagood, the company president, said: “We don’t try to be fancy. We do comfort food.” 

You could argue that cornmeal is cornmeal. But the difference with House-Autry, Hagood said, “is that it’s Southern on purpose.” 

Shaffer reported: “For all the modern machinery in the House-Autry plant, the centerpiece is still the grinding stones, 11 of them weighing about a ton apiece. Making cornmeal this way, smashing it with slow-moving, round stones, keeps more of the hull and germ of the kernel intact, giving the meal a courser texture and richer flavor.” 

Today’s House-Autry Mills product line include dozens of products – breadings for chicken, fish and pork dishes, hushpuppy and cornbread mixes, grits, sauces, spices and marinades. One major customer is the chain of Cracker Barrel Old Country Store restaurants, based in Lebanon, Tenn. 

In addition, House-Autry Mills recently acquired Captain Foods Inc., based in Edgewater, Fla. Its “Sharkbite Survival Kit Hot Sauces” are immensely popular with contemporary consumers.

 

Get the T-shirt. It’s awesome.